Anisette: The Best Croissant in L.A.

Brasseries—that louder, brasher variety of French dining that usually involves hearty food and booze (brasserie means "brewery," after all)—were all the rage in L.A. in recent years. One of the newest brasseries to hit the Southland is Anisette, a big, boisterous spot just off the Promenade in Santa Monica with a bar imported from France, lofted seating at the back, and a menu of decent Gallic cuisine wrapped in a bright package with impeccable service.



Anisette is also the place where we chose to ring in my 34th year (wow! What a geezer!) on a Saturday afternoon. We thought the brasserie atmosphere would be great to tow along a toddler—we figured any shrieks or hollers would just get sucked into the general noise level—and sure enough, we weren't the only ones toting youngsters along for a foodie adventure.

Probably the best thing, menu-wise, was Anisette's croissants. "They're the best in L.A.," our waiter said. I wanted to reply with a Liz Lemon-ish, "Oh really? Have you tried Costco's?" but the guy was so great with Aki I didn't want to be rude.


Aki proposes a toast at Anisette



Sure enough, the croissant was pretty damn good. We tried it plain and with chocolat, and it was head and shoulders above Europane or the little place on Montana Ave. I used to go to.


Tommy's burger: No, not that Tommy's!

The burger got a thumbs-up from Tommy. And I thought the steak au poivre was decent (though we've made better bechamel) and the croque monsieur was pretty damn good. And Aki, of course, gave the frittes two greasy thumbs-up.

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Yuri's croque monsieur

But by far the shiniest spot on Anisette's report card was the terrific service (including "valet parking" for our stroller). The decor is pretty spectacular, too, including the dizzying floor tiles, high ceilings, and spectacular wall of liquor, which, besides a couple of mimosas, we didn't get to sample.

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This was all a few weeks before the Biblical floods that have swept L.A. set in, so we got a chance to stroll down to Ocean Ave. and soak up some of that spectacular Santa Monica air and sunshine.

I used to head down to the same patch of grass above the water after working the graveyard shift, and just suck in the cool ocean air and let the sun charge me up with Vitamin D like a human solar panel. It's a touristy spot, to be sure, but it also used to be home.

It was a wonderful gift to be able to touch base at one of my old haunts. It was just the way you're supposed to spend a birthday: Having people who love you show you just how well they know you!




Look what a couple of mimosas will do for your complexion!